Golf As It Should Be Files: Kingarrock

Hickories in top condition with authentic period bags at Kingarrock. (Click on image to enlarge)Nearly two years ago I vowed to profile more of the great, perhaps unsung places in golf and I've failed miserably since that initial post on Santa Anita Golf Course.

But with the holidays looming and the news drying up, it's a nice time to highlight a very special place. It's been an amazing year for me, with stops in Pebble Beach, St. Andrews, Churchill Downs and many other great spots in the world of sport, yet no day brings back fonder memories than a late afternoon round at Kingarrock.

The round was arranged by John Huggan, who had written about the course in his Scotland On Sunday column. He guaranteed it would be a great day of golf as it used to be played, with hickories. Arriving Monday at St. Andrews was already a special day since it was my first time there in over twenty years, but immediately upon pulling up to Kingarrock I knew we were in for something entirely fresh and wonderful.

Aided by glorious weather, the sixsome of Huggan, myself, Donegan, Townsend, Clayton and Ogilvy whizzed around the 2,022 yard hickory course in a little over 80 minutes. As explained to us by David Anderson, guardian of all things Kingarrock and a truly great friend of golf history, we had the option of playing an 1898 or 1924 ball. The 1898 flew about twenty yards less and makes Kingarrock a par-37, compared to par 34 with the 1924 equivalent ball.

David Anderson, Kingarrock caretaker gives us a pre-round explanation of hickory golf and the course's history. (Click to enlarge)Anderson explained to us the history of the estate and course that was founded by the Sharp family, eventually abandoned and resurrected in 2008 after a six year effort to bring the course back. If it weren't for the setting sun, we could have listened to Anderson's insights into hickories, the evolution of the game and the many amazing details injected into Kingarrock to ensure authenticity. (The course website is here.)

The golf was sensational. I've played with hickories before but never in a setting so beautiful and on a course designed explicitly for the hickory era. A few random observations:

  • The hickories are quite sturdy and there is no sense of the clubhead lagging behind. It took me a few holes to get images of Bobby Jones and curled shafts out of my head. Once I did, I hit the ball better.
  • The short game is far more challenging than the long game with hickories.
  • The shorter drives meant shorter walks to our drives. Not exactly a revelation, I know, but the impact this had on the way the round flowed cannot be underestimated. It was great fun to get to your shots so quickly and the overall pacing and flow was infinitely superior to today's game.
  • The sound is wonderful. It takes some getting used to but it's far more pleasant than today's clubs sound, or even persimmon.
  • I'd rather play a round at Kingarrock with hickories than 99% of today's courses with modern equipment.
  • Ginger Beer and shortbread cookies taste especially delicious after nine holes.

Gentlemen all around the table and fine members of the golfing establishment. (Click image to enlarge)That's right, after the round Mr. Anderson served us these delicious treats inside the cozy and beautifully adorned cottage where the hickories are lovingly tended to and the past is celebrated with framed images, books and other artifacts on display.

As I note in the below slideshow of images and video from the day, Kingarrock is an absolutely essential stop if you are anywhere near St. Andrews.

The course is just a 15-minute drive from the town center of St. Andrews, near Cupar. And should the ginger beer and cookies not be enough, a wonderful post-round meal can be had at the nearby Kingarroch Inn